White head kerchiefs. It was one of the first things that set Albanians apart. Whether it was a nice lace kerchief, a simply cotton cl...

 You can tell when a city is poor, as Rebecca said recently, by the smell.  It’s hard to put a finger on what that smell is, but it’s the...

"When (the city) was first built, the wood had cunningly had itself hoisted up top, leaving the stone to the foundations, cellars an...

 Imagine living in Albania in the 1970’s.  The country had been plunged into complete isolation, cut off from its neighbors, its old alli...

Gjirokastër is a city that looks beautiful at any time of day, from any angle.  A timeless sort of gorgeous, it is curvaceous with mount...

 Albania is a long, thin country.  The cuisine changes as one heads south between the Mediterranean and a backcloth of high mountains, fr...

It is called The City of a Thousand Windows and at night, when the rare and beautiful Ottoman architecture is lit up, you can see why. We a...