Pages

23 April 2012

The Museum City of Berat

It is called The City of a Thousand Windows and at night, when the rare and beautiful Ottoman architecture is lit up, you can see why. We arrived on Saturday evening, as locals were promenading and the lights were coming on. Overhead, fireworks began to pop in the air - celebrations of a wedding. It was a veritable light show - the loud, bright burst of present-day dancing above spotlit history. And it was a perfect first impression of Berat.
Berat was one of two cities in Albania to be named a "Museum City" under Enver Hoxha, giving it protection from the Communist urban planning that steam-rolled most of the country's old world charm. There was something about the title that made me think I would find a town behind glass, someplace undeniably picturesque but a little untouchable. I couldn't have been more wrong. In the murky Osum river, deceptively lit blue the night before, a man and his son threw large nets out in the water. They wore matching white tees and bermuda shorts and caught only sticks.
On the historic stone Gorica Bridge, this young boy tried his own luck with a fishing rod. Cars are no longer allowed to drive over the well preserved bridge, but motorcycles weave through the blockades throughout the day. We walk across this each morning, as we're staying in the section of town called Gorica, which is a cluster of steep, ankle-twisting cobblestones walkways and a cluster of Ottoman-style houses that stand out from the pine backdrop like a page in a pop-up book. This morning, we moved aside for a wide SUV and then again for a man pulling a wooden-saddled mule. The roosters next door have been our alarm clock.
It's a city of 60,000 or so people and in about 72 hours, we feel like we've talked to about half of them. That's an exaggeration, but it's impossible to walk down the street and not enter a conversation. The owner of this clothing store wanted to show me the wedding dresses. She has family in Michigan and Florida, she told us. Just a few feet away, a trio of men were loading a spearfishing gun into the trunk of a car. One of the men was "an engineer for the protected houses," and had done a lot of work in Gorica. Today, though, he was just going to the coast for some fishing.
We were told that Berat has a 60% unemployment rate. That's about four times the national average. I can't help but think that tourism would generate jobs in this Museum City like crazy if this were any number of other European countries. While it's true that we've encountered more Brits and Americans here, about a dozen, than we did in the whole of Tirana, such a uniquely beautiful spot would be swarming with foreigners in - say - Czech Republic or Croatia.
But this is Albania - and while Lonely Planet may have named it #1 on its Top Ten Countries to Visit in 2011, they still haven't put out a dedicated book on the country. (We love you LP, but Bradt's got the goods on this one). The three restaurants we've gone to in Berat so far have all had the same Albanian-English menu, separated into grilled items, pastas and pizzas. Frogs legs, prawns, lamb, turkey, veal - they've all regretfully informed us that today there is only beef and pizza. But as is the case throughout the country, there are also vegetables galore. How can you complain with a lunch like this?
Berat's future may be uncertain, the employment has driven most of the young and aspiring out of town, but it's history is long and strong. In the ancient world of Albanian folklore, it's the land of two giants who became mountains. The woman they fought over's tears became the river. More factually proven inhabitants are: Greek, Macedonian, Byzantine, Roman, Slavic and Bulgarian. It was one of the most important cities in the Ottoman Empire between the 18th and 19th centuries. In 1944, the Anti-Fascist National Liberation Committee met here in Berat and Hoxha's party, the Provisional Government of Albania, beginning his 40 year rein as Albanian's leader. Monuments in the new town celebrate this fact and commemorate those who died in the struggle.
But it's the Ottoman houses that have left the most indelible mark on this 4,000 year old city. And they are simply beautiful. Their white wash-ed walls and terra cotta tiled roofs, large windows and vertical piling make them a sight to be seen. Architecture like this isn't preserved so well anywhere else in the world. But the life that springs up in, on, around and under them make Berat even more worth visiting. If this town is a Museum, you can see the reflection of a at least a thousand people in the glass around the display.

19 comments:

  1. Great you liked my hometown. It is so beautiful!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Loan offer with 0% interest contact Lightstreamloanlender@gmail.com for any Financial help....Business loan, loan to acquire a House or a Car etc....

      Delete
    2. Do you need Personal Loan?
      Business Cash Loan?
      Unsecured Loan
      Fast and Simple Loan?
      Quick Application Process?
      Approvals within 24-72 Hours?
      No Hidden Fees Loan?
      Funding in less than 1 Week?
      Get unsecured working capital?
      Contact Us At : urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
      Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

      LOAN SERVICES AVAILABLE INCLUDE:
      ================================
      *Commercial Loans.
      *Personal Loans.
      *Business Loans.
      *Investments Loans.
      *Development Loans.
      *Acquisition Loans .
      *Construction loans.
      *Credit Card Clearance Loan
      *Debt Consolidation Loan
      *Business Loans And many More:

      LOAN APPLICATION FORM:
      =================
      Full Name:................
      Loan Amount Needed:.
      Purpose of loan:.......
      Loan Duration:..
      Gender:.............
      Marital status:....
      Location:..........
      Home Address:..
      City:............
      Country:......
      Phone:..........
      Mobile / Cell:....
      Occupation:......
      Monthly Income:....

      Contact Us At urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
      Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

      Delete
  2. Loan offer with 0% interest contact Lightstreamloanlender@gmail.com for any Financial help....Business loan, loan to acquire a House or a Car etc....

    ReplyDelete
  3. Do you need Finance?
    Are you looking for Finance?
    Are you looking for a money to enlarge your business?
    We help individuals and companies to obtain loan for business
    expanding and to setup a new business ranging any amount. Get a
    loan at affordable interest rate of 2%, Do you need this cash/loan
    for business and to clear your bills? Then send us an email now
    for more information contact us now whatspp Number +918929490461
    Contact Us At : abdullahibrahimlender@gmail.com
    Mr Abdullah Ibrahim

    ReplyDelete
  4. My name is Mrs Aisha Mohamed, am a Citizen Of Qatar.Have you been looking for a loan?Do you need an urgent personal loan or business loan?contact Dr James Eric Finance Home he help me with a loan of $42,000 some days ago after been scammed of $2,800 from a woman claiming to been a loan lender but i thank God today that i got my loan worth $42,000.Feel free to contact the company for a genuine financial service. Email:(financialserviceoffer876@gmail.com) call/whats-App Contact Number +918929509036

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hello Everybody,

    My name is Bhagwan Kumawzt by name and I live in the POLAND and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation get any kind of loan you need today, thank you, as you read greatest testimony of my life. with whatsapp+919667837169

    Testimony of a serious loan acquired, thank you very much Dr. Mark for your loan assistance of 100,000(US DOLLARS) without any upfront fee,that you give me. I will talk about your services to those around me who need a loan or financing. I am happy with the loan you have granted me Do not hesitate,if you need a loan and a real legit loan lender so just kindly contact him now and get your loan via:: markthomasfinanceltd@gmail.com whatsapp number: +919667837169

    Whats-App no +919667837169
    Company Name Ronnie Finance Ltd
    Dr. Mark Thomas

    ReplyDelete
  6. I am a private money lender and Investor, Do you need a legit, honest, reputable and quick loan? I can help you with 100% guarantee loan, I am offering business and individual loan, More also we finance all kind of projects. Waiting to hear from you to enable us send you the loan application form or for more details contact


    CONTACT LENDER COMPANY:

    C.E.O. Deby Johnson.
    debyfinancingloans@gmail.com
    Whatsapp Number: +447459797459
    Whatsapp Number: +918375004762
    DEBY FINANCING LOANS COMPANY

    ReplyDelete
  7. These facts are really good and my brother was exactly looking for this post. I am sure you guys were also looking for this post so why not look here because this is very beneficial post. I have bookmarked this page for more updated posts without paying any cost. Thanks. knee pillow

    ReplyDelete
  8. Are you in need of finance? we give out guarantee cash at 3% interest rate. Contact us on any kind of finance now: financialserviceoffer876@gmail.com whatsapp Number +918929509036 Dr James Eric Finance Pvt Ltd

    ReplyDelete
  9. DO YOU NEED A LOAN?
    We give out loans with an affordable interest rate of 2%
    Captain One provide Excellent and Professional Financial Services and we
    are known and genuine money lenders across the globe
    Our services include the following:
    *Student Loans
    Truck Loan
    Personal Loan
    Debt consolidation loan
    Car Loans
    Business Loan
    Student Loan
    Mortgage Loan
    Refinancing Loan
    Home Loan
    Improvement loan
    Construction Loan
    contact us for more information on how to get started:
    (Whats App) number:
    +919394133968 patialalegitimate515@gmail.com
    Mr Jeffery

    ReplyDelete
  10. Are you looking for loan to finance your large or small business,we'll help you get the large amount of money you desire

    for your business,we offer first class

    business and commercial loan to enable small scale business attain success in obtaining start up or refinance their

    business Bad credit rating accepted and poor

    business performance are accepted.apply today via email:(lendstart@protonmail.com)

    whatssapp number:+447440711562

    ReplyDelete
  11. LOAN OFFER FOR EVERYONE IN FINANCIAL NEED OF MONEY APPLY NOW

    Do you need a quick long or short term loan with a relatively low interest rate
    as low as 3%? We offer business loan, personal loan, home loan, auto loan,
    student loan, debt consolidation loan e.t.c. no matter your credit score.
    We are guaranteed in giving out financial services to our numerous clients
    all over the r world. With our flexible lending packages, loans can be
    processed and transferred to the borrower within the shortest time possible,
    contact our specialist for advice and finance planning.
    If you need a quick loan to contact
    us at email: globalfinancegroup445@gmail.com
    call or add us on what's app +447423009500

    Please, do provide us with the Following information If interested
    1) Full Name:.........
    2) Gender:.........
    3) Loan Amount Needed:.........
    4) Loan Duration:.........
    5) Country:.........
    6) Home Address:.........
    7) Mobile Number:.........
    8)Monthly Income:.....................
    9)Occupation:...........................
    )Which site did you here about us.....................
    Thanks and Best Regards.
    us at email: globalfinancegroup445@gmail.com
    call or add us on what's app +447423009500


    ReplyDelete
  12. Do you need a genuine Loan to settle your bills and startup
    business? contact us now with your details to get a good
    Loan at a low rate of 3% per Annual email us:
    Do you need Personal Finance?
    Business Cash Finance?
    Unsecured Finance
    Fast and Simple Finance?
    Quick Application Process?
    Finance. Services Rendered include,
    *Debt Consolidation Finance
    *Business Finance Services
    *Personal Finance services Help
    Please write back if interested with our interest rate datanfincorpfinance@gmail.com Whats-app us on +918929593217

    ReplyDelete
  13. Do you need Personal Loan?
    Business Cash Loan?
    Unsecured Loan
    Fast and Simple Loan?
    Quick Application Process?
    Approvals within 24-72 Hours?
    No Hidden Fees Loan?
    Funding in less than 1 Week?
    Get unsecured working capital?
    Contact Us At : urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
    Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

    LOAN SERVICES AVAILABLE INCLUDE:
    ================================
    *Commercial Loans.
    *Personal Loans.
    *Business Loans.
    *Investments Loans.
    *Development Loans.
    *Acquisition Loans .
    *Construction loans.
    *Credit Card Clearance Loan
    *Debt Consolidation Loan
    *Business Loans And many More:

    LOAN APPLICATION FORM:
    =================
    Full Name:................
    Loan Amount Needed:.
    Purpose of loan:.......
    Loan Duration:..
    Gender:.............
    Marital status:....
    Location:..........
    Home Address:..
    City:............
    Country:......
    Phone:..........
    Mobile / Cell:....
    Occupation:......
    Monthly Income:....

    Contact Us At urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
    Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

































































































    Do you need Personal Loan?
    Business Cash Loan?
    Unsecured Loan
    Fast and Simple Loan?
    Quick Application Process?
    Approvals within 24-72 Hours?
    No Hidden Fees Loan?
    Funding in less than 1 Week?
    Get unsecured working capital?
    Contact Us At : urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
    Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

    LOAN SERVICES AVAILABLE INCLUDE:
    ================================
    *Commercial Loans.
    *Personal Loans.
    *Business Loans.
    *Investments Loans.
    *Development Loans.
    *Acquisition Loans .
    *Construction loans.
    *Credit Card Clearance Loan
    *Debt Consolidation Loan
    *Business Loans And many More:

    LOAN APPLICATION FORM:
    =================
    Full Name:................
    Loan Amount Needed:.
    Purpose of loan:.......
    Loan Duration:..
    Gender:.............
    Marital status:....
    Location:..........
    Home Address:..
    City:............
    Country:......
    Phone:..........
    Mobile / Cell:....
    Occupation:......
    Monthly Income:....

    Contact Us At urbansuccessfundings@gmail.com
    Phone number :+17247693888 (Whatsapp Only)

    ReplyDelete
  14. Emergency Cash Loans Hello Everybody, My name is Mrs. Phyllis Sue South. I live in UK London and i am a happy woman today? and i told my self that any lender that rescue my family from our poor situation, i will refer any person that is looking for loan to him, he gave me happiness to me and my family, i was in need of a loan of $350,000.00 to start my life all over as i am a single mother with 2 kids I met this honest and GOD fearing man loan lender that help me with a loan of $350,000.00 U.S. Dollar, he is a GOD fearing man, if you are in need of loan and you will pay back the loan please contact him tell him that is Mrs. Phyllis Sue South that refer you to him. contact Dr. James Eric via email: financialserviceoffer876@gmail.com Whats-App +918929509036

    ReplyDelete
  15. Everything is very open with a really clear explanation of the challenges. It was really informative. Your website is very useful. Many thanks for sharing! 사설토토

    ReplyDelete
  16. $$$GET A SOLUTION FOR YOUR FINANCIAL PROBLEMS$$$

    Are you finding yourself in a difficult financial situation and trying to
    manage multiple payments with higher interest rates to various creditors?
    we could help you with your debt consolidation, and you could benefit
    from having just one regular repayment to manage Our debt consolidation
    program can help you to get out of debt at a low rate of 3% per Annual.
    Email us:globalfinancegroup445@gmail.com
    call or add us on what's app +447423009500

    ReplyDelete
  17. am sure this post has touched all the internet users, its really really pleasant piece of writing on building up new webpage.
    성인웹툰

    ReplyDelete