This is the “Macedonian Riviera,” and the eating here in Ohrid town has been almost uniformly excellent, with lots of cheap, pleasant restaurants dotting the waterfront and the side streets. We’ve been avoiding ohridska, but eating just about every other watery fauna we can get our forks into. Here’s a look at what’s on offer in Ohrid that’s not endangered.
(At a later meal - we won’t mention the place - we were actually served fake shrimp, which were somewhat disgusting – they were like frozen fishcakes molded into the shape of a prawn, breaded and deep-fried. We’ll spare you a picture.)
this process is really interesting, actually - the Sargasso Sea is in the middle of the Atlantic ocean).
Arriving piping hot, baked with peppers, onions and tomato in a clay dish, the eel was like molten fish fat. The taste had none of the muddiness that other eel can have, the meat was falling apart and lusciously, intensely flavorful – a heady mix of bay, basil and (we think) paprika.
It’s hard to sit beside a deep, cold lake and not think about flashing silver scales or the smell of a freshwater fish frying in butter. Fortunately, there are also other kinds of trout here – and they’re very tasty. Guides suggest the mavrovska, belvica, kaliforniska and rekna varieties as better alternatives to ohridska Belvica is also found in Ohrid, and is less threatened, but it might be a good idea to avoid it anyway. This beautiful half of mavrovska was pan cooked, thick-fleshed and juicy. The pink meat was dense without being dry, the flavor was of mountain water and cold winters.
Also, we can't feel that bad about not trying the trout - locals prefer pork cutlets anyway.