Jämtland, we drove along the sparkling Lake Oldsjön. Still and clear, it was like a mirror that had been taken down from the wall to be cleaned. 78% of Sweden is forested, so the lakes invariably come with a reflection of trees built right in. We began to talk about where we'd just been, Hälsingland, where a whopping 85% of land is covered in woods. We stayed in Alfta for two days, visiting the Hälsingegården. And while the painted farms are unique in the world, we were also able to see something there that is becoming rarer and rarer in Sweden - working farms. Agriculture dates back to the Stone Age in Hälsingland, with proof of barley, wheat, millet and flax cultivation. And while it has dropped off precipitously in recent decades, there is a tradition of farming that still holds strong.